For years I have been gazing at a map of the Olympics and seeing a loop in the southeastern part of the park. This loop crosses Anderson, O’Neil and LaCrosse passes and can be accessed via the west fork of the Dosewallips, the Duckabush, the Enchanted Valley, or the Skokomish via High Divide. Not sure why it has taken me so long to actually pull the trigger on this trip, but finally did it this past week, accessing via the Dose.
I parked the truck at the washout on the Dose and left just before 7AM and headed on up the road to the Ranger Station and then on up the west fork at Dose Forks. My hope was to get over Anderson Pass and get started onto the O’Neil trail before stopping for the night. For the most part the walking was easy and the miles just flew by. I got to Honeymoon Meadows, having seen only 2 couples on the trail and a camp set up at the roads end, and stopped for a late lunch. I had expected to have to ford just above Diamond Meadows and again at Honeymoon Meadows, but there were a series of big logs at the Diamond crossing, and a bunch of branches laid across at Honeymoon so I was able to keep my feet dry the whole time.
After lunch I charged on over the pass, where I encountered what appeared to be a small trail crew at rest, and then down to the O’Neil turnoff and followed that trail for a couple of hours. There was an amazing number of huckleberries in the pass, and I ate more than my share of them. Finally stopped for the night off to the side of the trail where the ground was not too steep and I could get my hammock pitched.
As I was eating dinner a young man from the Portland area came by. He was doing the same loop, although in reverse and starting from the Skykomish. we talked for a few minutes and he went on, hoping to get another couple of miles in, although it was dusk by then. After a 20.5 mile day, I was pooped and in the hammock before 8PM.
Day 2 started early and hit the trail by 7. About 15 minutes later I ran into a bear having breakfast. It was pretty cool, except that he was in the trail, about 50-60 feet away, and not inclined to move over and let me go by. After taking a few pictures and watching a bit, I started talking loudly to it, clacking my sticks together and even blew on my whistle for a bit. Nothing. Eventually he started toward me and finally seemed to recognize my presence. He then turned around and slowly ambled down the trail, with me following behind and continuing to talk to him. I followed for about 10 minutes before he finally got tired of me tailing him and turned off onto a branching animal trail. Pretty exciting for me.
An hour further down the trail I started hearing elk bugling and shortly after rounded a corner opening out to a big cirque. And there stood a big 6 or 7 point bull. I got a few pictures before he saw me and ran off down the hill. A few minutes later there was another big bull above me, and then several more down below. I spotted at least 7 at one time, with the trees seeming to hide many more. The hills were echoing with their calls. I must have spent half an hour slowly moving around that cirque, watching and listening to them.
Eventually I got to O’Neil Pass and met a young lady who was making the same trip as the guy from last night. We talked briefly and then went on, my expectation being that I would see both of them later in the day in the LaCrosse Pass area.
I saw another big bull just above Marmot Lake and then continued on down the Duckabush. Part way to the ford I met another guy who was making the same trip I was except doing the loop in reverse. He was going at a much slower pace though so did not expect to see him again. Obviously this is a popular loop to make.
I hit the bottom of the LaCrosse trail at close to 1 and headed up this 3.3 mile 2900 foot climb. This was the only part of the trip I had never been on, but knew it was steep and dry. So I dropped down into granny gear and slowly plugged my way up, finding it not to be as bad as I had feared. Hit the top a bit after 3, had some snacks and started down. About 1/3 of the way I re-met the gal from O’Neil charging up the hill, and she didn’t even seem to be breathing hard. 2/3 of the way down I met the guy from the previous night, not moving nearly as fast. Visited briefly with both before continuing down the hill, past Honeymoon Meadows and on to Diamond Meadows for the night.
Slept in the next morning and hit the trail about 8:15 and cruised on down the 12 miles to the truck, getting there a bit before 1 to start the long drive home. All in all a very good trip. 52 miles of some beautiful country in about 2 1/2 days. Got to see a bear and some elk, ate lots of berries and only saw about 10 people. The weather was good and the trail was in good shape. The only thing missing were the wildflowers, which were well past their prime.
|This little guy was playing sentry just past the washout. |
|This is probably the lowest I have ever seen the Dosewallips. The falls half a mile below the Ranger Station are normally booming.|
|The Dosewallips Ranger Station with a pet deer just in front of the sign. |
|The low bridge at Dose Forks.|
|I get a kick out of seeing these insulators periodically. Left over, I understand, from WW II when there were spotters up in some of the passes looking for Japanese planes.|
|Looking down from the high bridge over the west fork. Not sure how far down it is, but it looks to be a 100 feet or so.|
|The current iteration of the high bridge. It has been destroyed more than once over the years, but looks much more substantial than it has in the past. I remember being able to bounce on it while crossing, but not now.|
|Honeymoon Meadows. Pretty dry this time of year.|
|The privy at the shelter just below Anderson Pass, about 10 feet off the trail. Not for those looking for privacy in their ‘quiet’ time.|
|Taken from just above the meadow a mile up the O’Neil Pass trail. I assume the glacier at the top center is on Mt Anderson.|
|Hammock strung along side the O’Neil trail. Not a lot of level ground in the area. But it really doesn’t matter once you climb in.|
|My hiking partner for part of the second morning.|
|One of the big bulls in the cirque along the O’Neil trail.|
|A river of clouds flowing into the Enchanted Valley. Glad I was higher up.|
|Marmot Lake nestled in its little basin. Heart and LaCrosse lakes are on a shelf up and to the left.|
|Not many flowers blooming this time of year, but there was a lot of fungus growing.|
|Just about the only fresh flower I saw on the trip. All the rest of them were fading or gone.|
|LaCrosse Pass, elevation 5566, high point of the trip.|
|This is the jumble of branches and small trees that you can use to pick your way across the Dose at Honeymoon Meadows.|
|Massive blowdown just below Honeymoon. The river is in the foreground. It happened several years ago, but the scar is still very visible.|